eboard version 2
After the failure of version 1. I decided to follow a more common design. In order to save money I decided to salvage what I can from version 1. For the rest of the components I went with more commercially available components for e-boards. Herewith follows a complete bill of parts and where to source them. Some items were bought locally at stores in Cape Town, South Africa.
Bought locally from Boardhub. Roughly the size of a longboard, but in the style of a shortboard. Though the following attributes are really a matter of preference, here are some things to look out for when choosing a deck:
- Length and wheelbase: typically not mentioned on product listings, and much more important when opting for a fullsize shortboard design as odd length sizes will make it hard to fit everything beneath your deck.
- Width: go for slightly larger widths such as at least 8 or 8.5 inches (or wider).
- Concavity: look for flatter decks, as very concave decks could make it hard to safely secure blocky enclosures.
Bought locally from Revolution. They are normal skateboard trucks. One side of the hanger had to be machined down in order to fit the large drivewheel – this was done by a professional machine worker. Then the motor mount had to be welded on – was also done by a professional welder. I angled the motor mount bracket slightly down (in the direction of the deck) in order to get more ground clearance for my motor. I swopped out one of the bushings for a harder barrel bushing, hoping to get a little more clearance for my angled motor mount and to make the ride a bit safer. This bushing is also taller, as it is intended for longboards. The dura rating is 95a.
Bought online from ebay. Taller than usual, with a height of 0.5 inches.
The bearings are not shown in the picture below. These wheels come with preinstalled bearings. Unfortunately at least one of them appeared badly damaged (arrived this way), so I replaced them with Independent 7’s which I bought from Boardhub.
Bought online from Longboarding SA. Taller than usual, with a height of around 40mm. Normal sized hardware is ideal for securing your enclosure to your deck.
Bought online from Hobbyking. There are many guides online to tell you which type of motor is ideal for you. The short guide is: choose the one with the LOWEST kV that you can afford. Important: a keyway needed to be milled into the axle. Before this was done, the small motor pulley would simply come loose and would not be turned by the axle, despite the grub screw being tightened. Online research indicated that using locktite on the grub screw was a very bad idea. The axle customization was done by a professional machine worker.
small puley and drive belt
Important: choose a pulley with a key for a more secure drive system. Pulleys from ebay often do not have keys and sometimes come without grub screws. See section on motor axle modifications for more information.
I chose a small pulley with 14 teeth and a belt of 280mm. The belt fit is extremely tight and am still looking for a 285mm belt – if you know where to get one, let me know.
Bought online from Enertion Boards. This is perhaps the most important component. For version 1 of the eboard I used a LIPO battery off of ebay. This, however, is an enertion S.P.A.C.E. battery and uses Li-ion technology, and has a host of built in features such as safe plug and play charging (not safe with LIPO batteries) and built in Voltage meter. Enertion has a video on the benefits of this battery. You should also buy the charger.
As of 1 March 2016, is still being shipped.
“ESC” stands for Electronic Speed Controller. Bought online from Enertion Boards. This is a crucial component. For version 1 of the eboard I used a RC car esc rated at 120 amps off of ebay – which still failed (partly my own fault, I guess). This is the famous VESC which is currently the only tailor-made commercially available electric skateboard ESC. It is also open source! Enertion has a video on their version of the VESC.
As of 1 March 2016, is still being shipped.
Bought online from ebay. Some also come with a built in tool to remove and insert bearings into the wheel. Even though mine doesn’t have this feature, it was still incredibly useful (and cheap).
When using a single motor setup, and for regular stance riders, the motor should be placed on the back-end and heelside. See the diagram below for the ideal position to place the motor. My setup is slightly different, with the motor placed rear and toe-side , which also works.
Using your skate tool, mount the trucks on your risers and fasten hardware.